A gush of air ruffled my hair. Was that a bullet whistling past my head? Where am I? What the heck is happening? My eardrums throbbed with piercing pops and massive explosions. The stench of rotten eggs and burning charcoal seared my nostrils. Soldiers yelled orders, screamed in pain, or shouted insults at the opposition. Beyond clear-cut fields, I saw countless flashes made dim by smoke and distance. I wondered what the flashes represented until I heard sharp thuds and saw wood splintering. They were gunshots coming toward me at a frantic pace. The entire encounter was unreal. Standing on a sturdy parapet eight feet above the ground, I overlooked a raging gun battle. The relentless noise dazed me. To my left and right, soldiers returned fire, and deafening blasts of cannon fire made it nearly impossible to think clearly. I should have felt a desperate urge to escape, yet I sensed no such need. I was not afraid. Something told me that I was not a participant in this drama. As I glanced...